Saturday, August 08, 2015

Lady Musgrave Island

On our day off in Gladstone, a bunch of us got up before the sun, got in our vans, and drove. We sleepily arrived at the quiet beach of Seventeen Seventy (1770) an hour later (Yes, that is the real name of the town. Something about James Cook landing there or something. Despite the strangeness of the name, it is a really nice beach area).

Why were we there? Because one of the islands of the Great Barrier Reef is just east of this area. We were off to the coral cay, Lady Musgrave Island.

The nice thing about Lady Musgrave Island is that it is not heavily loaded with tourists, unlike Cairns and Port Douglas further north. Most of the people who come to this area are Australians, and there are only a few boats that goes out there. For some reason I had been under the impression that we were the only people who were getting on the boat. There were maybe 80 other people on the boat with our group, it turned out. I barely noticed.

I had a packet of Kwells, as I am now well known for my motion sickness. I popped a few while getting on a low-riding boat that would bring us out of the beach area to the boat during low tide. The little, slowly-tugging boat felt like we were wading through the Everglades in the US (as far as I could tell) until we got onto the bigger catamaran.

On our way to the island, the boat flew over waves and rocked back and forth for over an hour. As my fellow classmates were vomiting around me into the little discrete bags the boat had for seasickness, I was sleepily taking in the rolling of the boat with my Kwells-induced peace.

Our boat slowed down and attached itself to a pontoon in the water, close by the island.

Lady Musgrave is gorgeous. We were there on a beautiful, sunny day, and the shallowness of the Great Barrier Reef and the island in the water made the ocean dazzle in almost unreal shades of blue. The island shimmered in the distance with its white sands and bright green trees. It was so peaceful there.

We snorkeled around in the light blue water for an hour or so. I floated on a swimming noodle and lazily hovered over the reef, enjoying the brightly colored fish and intricate designs in the coral. Unlike my last experience on the Great Barrier Reef, the pills meant that I did not have to worry about puking all over the fish (though they might have enjoyed that), so I swam further afield than before. And there were turtles!

Some of the classmates went scuba diving, and they mentioned they could feel/hear whales in the not-so-distant distance talking to each other.

After lunch, the tour took our group to the island to learn a bit about the ecology of the coral cay and the reef in general. A pleasant man took us out on a tour of the reef on his glass-bottom boat, and we got to look at more rare fish that way without hurting them/ourselves. We looked at some mammoth sea cucumbers, which are adorable for slugs. They peacefully lie around, eating whatever gunk is on the ocean floor and keeping everything nice and light - nature's vacuum cleaner. I decided I want to have a sea cucumber and name it Francis.

A bunch of turtles surfaced right next to our boat, too; our group nearly lost it with excitement.

The beach, though beautifully white, was very painful to walk on - it was old and dried up coral pieces that broke off and wash up onto the banks over time. Coral is already extremely sharp and rocky when alive, so in its white bleached beachiness, it was like walking on shards of glass in some places. The tinkling sound of the coral moving around on the beach, though, was beautiful.

The walk on the island was sharply different from the tranquil, lazy floating we just did in the water. The tour guide told us about how the trees on the island are almost completely made out of water, and birds use the roots of the trees to burrow and nest. The thing is, the trees make these sticky seeds and drop them all over the place, which ultimately kills about half of the bird population each year (taking into account new birds, don't worry) because the residue gets stuck on their feathers and they are unable to fly. They starve to death, and the dead birds end up composting on the ground while the trees consume the nutrients from their corpses!

Basically, the carnivorous island in Life of Pi is real, and it exists in the Great Barrier Reef!

Anyways.....

The day was relaxing, beautiful, and fun. We got back to the beach, and our tents over in Gladstone, feeling happy and even maybe a little more enlightened about the beauty of the world.

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